Chain sharpening


A sharp chain not only helps you cut faster, it reduces wear on your chainsaw and helps the saw run more efficiently saving fuel, lubrication and emissions. Sharpening the chain doesn’t have to be an intimidating process.

Our shop sells a ton of chainsaws (and, coincidentally, a lot of chain) and we are often asked, “how to sharpen the chain by hand?” The short answer is this: you can not re-sharpen a chain with a file you can only keep a sharp chain sharp. What this means is that a mounted grinder is the only way to ensure the exact angles are maintained on each cutter. When you file by hand (unless you’re a robot) you will inevitably apply too much pressure or too little pressure to one side. It is also very unlikely that you can maintain the exact same angles on every stroke of the file on every cutter tooth. Grinders are especially helpful on extremely dull chain that has struck the ground or an embedded rock. The cutting edges can be rolled and need to be ground much farther than usual.

So, a good rule of thumb is to touch-up the chain with a file everytime you refill the tank, and have the chain professionally ground every third or fourth filing. Tip: have several chains that you can swap out to get the job done, and have them all sharpened when you’re finished.

Now it’s time to touch-up your sharpened chain.

Be sure to inspect the chain before sharpening, particularly if the chain has been thrown or pinched. Look for bent or burred drive links as they can damage the bar and/or drive sprocket. Also, broken or damaged cutters, straps, or rivets should be replaced.

I should also note that the following information pertains to round-filed chains and are based on Oregon® chain.

  1. Be sure to have the correct size file and file guide.

  2. When hand filing it’s important that 1/5, or 20 percent, of the file’s diameter is always held above the cutter’s top plate. Using the correct file guide is the easiest way to hold the file in this position.

  1. Keep the correct top-plate filing angle line on your file guide parallel with the chain. Many cutters have a guide mark stamped near the rear edge of the top plate that can also be used as a guide for filing angle.

  1. Sharpen cutters on one side of the chain first. File from the inside of each cutter to the outside. Then turn your saw around and repeat the process for cutters on the other side of the chain.

  1. If damage is present on the chrome surface of top plates or side plates, file back until such damage is removed.

  2. Keep all cutters equal. Start with the cutter with the most damage and hand file all cutters back equally.

Setting depth guages

  1. Use a depth-gauge tool with the correct built-in setting for your chain and check your depth gauges after every third or fourth sharpening.

  2. Place the tool on top of your chain so one depth gauge protrudes through the slot in the tool.

If the depth gauge extends above the slot, file the depth gauge down level with the top of the tool using a flat file. Never file the depth gauge down enough to exceed the depth gauge setting specified.

Note: Do not attempt to file or alter tops of kickback-reducing bumper tie straps or bumper drive links, except on 33SL, 34SL, and 35SL chains. Only on 33SL, 34SL, and 35SL will the bumper tie straps be filed down while the cutter depth gauges are filed.

All of this information, and more, can be found on Oregon’s website. As you can see, sharpening your chains doesn’t have to be a mysterious intimidating task. Plus, keeping your chains sharp will make your job easier and you’ll be done faster.

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